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Wiring In a hardwired system you must run wires to each sensor connected to the system. As discussed in the zones section, you can use one run of wires to connect multiple sensors. Ideally you would run separate wires to each sensor so that the panel can isolate the tripped sensor in alarm situations or when problems occur. This can be accomplished in many ways. Their are many types of wire that can be used for sensor wiring. There are several companies that make 2 conductor spools of wire specifically for alarm systems. They also make 4 conductor cables for motion sensors and other devices that require 4 wires. I suggest that you use standard category 5 data cable. It is inexpensive and allows you to standardize on a cable that can be used for multiple purposes. This is the same cable that is used for phone and computer network systems. It has 8 conductors which is more than enough for any type of sensor or keypad. I suggest that you use it for everything EXCEPT power or other devices requiring a lot of power. This may include sirens and lighting control. The conductors in cat 5 are fairly small and not designed for carrying a lot of power. Since it has 8 conductors you have the advantage of "chaining" sensors along the run. In other words you can use 2 of the 8 conductors for each magnetic (reed) or 4 for each motion sensor. If you use different wires for each sensor the panel will see them as individual sensors allowing you to connect each to it's own zone. Be sure to observe polarity on the modules that require power connections (i.e. motion sensors). You must connect the "-" terminal on the sensor to the "-" on the panel. The same is true for "+". Since cat 5 color codes each wire individually, this should not be a problem. You may wish to use the same color for each type of connection to avoid confusion. On the other hand you could home run a full cat 5 to each sensor for future upgrades. The choice is yours. Probably the biggest factor is when you do your wiring. Ideally you would install all you wiring during the construction of your home or building. Getting it installed before the walls go up is much easier and cheaper. It also allows you to install hidden magnetic switches in doors and windows much more easily. In existing homes you must be prepared to climb in the attic, drill through header boards, and fish wires down to holes you drill into the sheetrock walls. This can be a very difficult and dirty job. In many cases it is best left to the pros. There are distance limitations to the length of an individual wire run. These vary by panel but may become an issue in excessively long runs. Once again, check you manual. Probably the biggest advance in alarm systems in recent years has been the delivery of reliable wireless technology. Years ago, wireless sensors were erratic and had very short battery life. In recent years the technology has matured and battery life has been greatly extended. It is still good practice to use wired sensors whenever possible. They are still more reliable, immune to RF jamming, and never require a battery change. However, in existing homes and buildings the cost savings in installation labor may make wireless the logical choice. In many cases it may make sense to install a combination of wired and wireless devices. Transformer wiring In addition to sensor wiring you must run wire for power to the panel. This cable should be of heavier gauge (thicker) and well insulated. Ideally it will be a short run to a hidden outlet near the panel. Try not to install your transformer in a high traffic or highly visible area. It certainly should not be connected to a switched outlet! If the transformer has AC output, then you will not have to be concerned with polarity. If it is DC you will see - and + symbols on the transformer and panel that should be connected appropriately.
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